Make UnPaper Towels

Every year, the average household goes through 80 rolls of paper towels—each one used once and tossed. With one tree yielding about 118 rolls, the environmental math adds up fast. If you’re looking to reduce waste without sacrificing function, reusable unpaper towels are a simple, effective place to start. They’re absorbent, washable, and when made right, they outperform their disposable counterparts in both durability and clean-up power.

Supplies

You’ll need a yard or two of tightly woven cotton fabric—birdseye cotton works exceptionally well due to its structured texture and high absorbency. At Pura Fabric, we’ve tested several weaves for this application, and birdseye consistently delivers because of its balanced plain weave and raised crossbar pattern, which increases surface area for liquid uptake. One yard of 45″ wide fabric typically yields eight 11.25″ x 18″ towels, making it an efficient cut with minimal waste.

Have sharp fabric scissors, all-purpose polyester or cotton-wrapped polyester thread, a sewing machine, and a ruler or cutting mat on hand. A serger speeds up edge finishing, but isn’t required.

Optional but recommended: KAM Snaps and corresponding pliers. These plastic snap sets are durable through repeated washing and allow for roll-style storage. Don’t toss that last empty paper towel roll—keep it for sizing and testing snap placement before sewing.

Measure

Our birdseye cotton comes in at 45″ wide, so folding it lengthwise cuts your cutting time in half. Fold the fabric so you have a 22.5″ width, then fold again along the width into quarters—each segment measuring 11.25″. This gives you a clean grid to cut from. Alternatively, simply cut individual rectangles at 11.25″ x 18″. The 18″ length aligns with standard paper towel dispenser openings, while the 11.25″ width ensures a snug fit on most roll cores.

For precision, use a rotary cutter and self-healing mat. Misaligned cuts lead to uneven edges, which can cause skipped stitches during sewing—especially with dense weaves like birdseye. If you’re batch-cutting multiple layers, pin or clip the fabric to prevent shifting.

Sew It Up

The goal here is a clean, fray-resistant edge. Since these towels will endure frequent washing and wiping, a finished edge is essential. Use a narrow zigzag stitch (width 1.0–1.5, length 2.0–2.5) or, better yet, a serged edge with 3-thread overlock. The serger trims the edge and encloses it in thread, reducing bulk while maximizing durability.

If using a zigzag, stay about 1/8″ from the edge. Backstitch at the beginning and end to lock the seam. Avoid straight stitches—they leave cut ends exposed and prone to unraveling after repeated agitation in the wash.

For tighter weaves like birdseye, a size 70/10 universal needle works well. If you notice skipped stitches, switch to a sharp microtex needle—it pierces cleanly through the dense crossbars without deflecting.

Troubleshooting Checklist: Fraying Edges After Wash

✅ Did you finish the edges before washing? Raw edges will degrade quickly.

✅ Is your stitch width wide enough to secure the fabric edge?

✅ Are you using old or low-tension thread? Test thread strength by pulling sharply.

✅ Did you pre-wash? Untreated cotton shrinks 3–5%, which can stress seams.

✅ Consider a mock-flat felled seam for high-use towels—adds durability with minimal bulk.

Wash

Pre-washing is critical. Cotton birdseye has a GSM of around 120–130, and like most natural fibers, it undergoes initial shrinkage—typically 3–5% in the first wash, depending on weave density and finishing. Washing before use also removes any residual sizing and opens up the fiber pores, enhancing absorbency.

Wash in warm water with a mild detergent. Avoid fabric softeners—they coat fibers and reduce wicking ability over time. Tumble dry on medium or line dry. If ironing, use cotton setting with steam to reactivate any mercerization benefits (improved luster, strength, and dye affinity), though birdseye’s texture usually hides minor wrinkling.

Action

Now comes the fun part—using them. Stack your finished towels in a drawer, tuck them into a linen closet, or display them in a woven basket on the counter. They’re ready for spills, counters, and sticky little hands.

But if you want the full paper towel experience—dispensing one at a time from a roll—you’ll need to take one more step.

Roll It

This is where snaps make a difference. Grab your KAM snaps, pliers, and that empty cardboard roll. First, wrap a towel around the core to test fit. Mark where the short ends overlap—this determines snap placement.

Attach one snap half (male or female) to the cardboard roll at the overlap point. Repeat with the second half on the opposite side. Don’t secure them permanently yet—test with a few towels first.

On each towel, attach snaps along the 18″ edges. One side gets the socket (female), the other the stud (male). Crucially, place them so that when you roll the towels, the first towel’s right side (face up) connects to the next towel’s left side (face down). This alternating orientation creates a continuous roll that feeds smoothly.

Use a snap setting tool for consistency. If you’re hand-pressing, place the snap on a hard, flat surface and strike firmly with a smooth mallet. Misaligned snaps cause jamming in the dispenser.

Case Study: A daycare center replaced 120 disposable rolls per month with 60 unpaper towels using snap-together design. After six months, only two snaps had failed—both due to improper installation, not wear. The staff reported faster clean-up times and fewer paper scraps on the floor.

Final Thought

Reusable unpaper towels aren’t just a craft project—they’re a small act of resistance against single-use culture. When made with thoughtful materials and construction, they last for years, not minutes. And with fabrics like birdseye cotton from the mill, you’re not just saving trees; you’re investing in performance that improves with every wash.