Explore Different Types of Double Knit Fabrics

You know that frustrating moment when a knit garment loses its shape after two wears, or the edges curl no matter how carefully you sew? Yeah, we’ve all been there. A lot of the time, it comes down to picking the wrong knit structure—especially when you assume all “stretchy” fabrics behave the same. Double knits? They’re the quiet workhorses that solve half these problems, but only if you know which type to reach for.

What Is Double Knit Fabric?

Double knit fabric isn’t just “thicker” than single knits—it’s structurally smarter. Instead of one set of needles forming loops on a single plane, double knits use two sets (usually on a circular or flatbed machine) to interlock two layers simultaneously. This creates a fabric with loops on both sides, but no exposed raw edges. The result? A stable, reversible textile that resists curling, holds seams better, and drapes with authority.

Most double knits clock in between 220–350 GSM, depending on fiber and construction. That’s heavier than your average T-shirt jersey (which sits around 150–180 GSM), but not as stiff as a coated fabric. The interlocking stitch pattern—often a variation of interlock or rib—locks everything in place, so you get 20–30% stretch with solid recovery. I’ve seen garments in good-quality ponte hold their shape for years, while cheaper single knits bag out at the elbows in months.

If you’re sewing with double knits, use a ballpoint or stretch needle (size 75/11 or 90/14), and always test your tension. These fabrics can hide seam slippage if you’re not careful—especially blends with high spandex. A light press with steam (not direct iron contact) helps set seams without flattening the fabric’s body.

Different Types of Double Knit Fabrics

Double knits aren’t a monolith. Each type has its own personality—some drape like silk, others stand up like suiting. Choosing the right one means matching structure to purpose. Let’s break down the most common types you’ll encounter in production or on the bolt.

Double-pique fabric

Double-pique is the fabric of polo shirts and structured knit blazers. It’s made with a double-barrel knitting machine that creates a textured, honeycomb-like surface. The raised ribs aren’t just for looks—they add breathability and wick moisture by creating micro-air channels.

This fabric typically runs 240–280 GSM and has moderate 2-way stretch. It’s not meant to hug the body like a dance costume; it’s built for controlled movement. I once used a cotton-poly double-pique for a menswear line, and the factory had to adjust the stitch length to 2.8 mm to prevent puckering on the shoulders. Lesson learned: tighter stitches can compress the fabric and kill recovery.

Care tip: Double-pique can pill under friction (like under seat belts), so consider a poly-rich blend if durability is key. But if you want breathability, go for 60% cotton or higher—just accept it might need replacing sooner.

Double-jersey fabric

Double-jersey looks like single jersey on both sides, but it’s made with two sets of yarns feeding from opposite sides of the machine. The result? A fabric that’s reversible, stable, and doesn’t curl at the edges. It’s a favorite for babywear and high-end T-shirts because it feels soft on both sides and holds prints beautifully.

Most double-jerseys run 180–250 GSM. A 100% cotton version will shrink 5–7% if not pre-shrunk—something I learned the hard way when a batch of layette rompers came back 1.5 inches shorter. Now I always pre-wash or specify “sanforized” when ordering.

For sewing: use a narrow zigzag or lightning stitch on side seams. These fabrics don’t need serging unless you’re going for a sporty look, but a coverstitch hem gives a clean, professional finish.

Scuba knit fabric

Scuba knit is that sleek, slightly shiny fabric that looks like thin neoprene. It’s usually 95% polyester, 5% spandex, knitted with a tight gauge (think 18–20 needles per inch). It’s got body—serious body. I’ve used it for cocktail dresses that stand up on their own on a hanger.

GSM ranges from 260–320, and stretch is 30–40% with excellent recovery. But here’s the catch: it doesn’t breathe. At all. One summer, I made a scuba pencil skirt for a client who wore it to an outdoor wedding—she called it “a sauna with style.” So unless you’re designing for evening wear or cool climates, consider ventilation strategies like side vents or lining only the waistband.

Sewing tip: use a Teflon foot to prevent drag, and avoid steam. Heat can flatten the loft. If you must press, use a pressing cloth and low heat.

Double Jacquard fabric

Double Jacquard is where double knits get fancy. It’s knitted with multiple yarns and a jacquard mechanism that allows intricate, reversible patterns—florals, geometrics, even logos. Unlike woven jacquards, these are stretchy and drape better, making them ideal for statement pieces.

These fabrics are expensive—often $15–25/yd at the mill—but worth it for special collections. A recent order from Pura Fabric had a double jacquard with metallic threads; we had to adjust the tension on the overlocker to prevent snags. Also, because the design is structural (not printed), you can’t cut it on the bias without distorting the pattern. That’s a big deal in pattern-making.

One downside: these fabrics can be heavy. A 300 GSM jacquard might be too much for a flowing dress, but perfect for a tailored jacket.

Interlock Knit Fabric

Interlock is the soft, smooth double knit you find in baby clothes and high-end tees. It’s made by alternating front and back needles so that both sides look identical—like two single jerseys fused together. It’s thicker than single jersey but not stiff, usually 190–260 GSM.

It’s stable, doesn’t curl, and handles prints well. But here’s what most guides don’t tell you: interlock can develop “laddering” if one needle bar breaks during knitting. It’s rare, but when it happens, the whole roll can be compromised. I once got a shipment where every 12th yard had a faint vertical run. The supplier replaced it, but now I always inspect the first 3 yards before cutting.

For sewing, use a stretch twin needle for hems. It gives that clean, coverstitch-like look without needing a specialty machine.

Liverpool knit Fabric

Liverpool knit is the “luxury ponte” of double knits—denser, heavier, and more resistant to sun fading. It’s usually a blend of rayon, nylon, and spandex (like 58% rayon, 37% nylon, 5% spandex), weighing in at 280–320 GSM. It has 4-way stretch and a silky hand, making it ideal for fitted dresses and skirts.

I used Liverpool for a capsule collection last year, and one piece spent six months in a client’s car trunk—exposed to sun and heat. Most knits would’ve faded or lost elasticity. This one? Still looked new. The rayon gives drape, the nylon adds toughness, and the spandex delivers recovery.

But it’s not perfect. It can be tricky to press—too much heat and the rayon scorch marks. I use a damp press cloth and medium steam, never direct contact.

Milano Knit Fabric

Milano knit is a double-knit with a diagonal rib structure, usually made with fine yarns in a 2×2 or 2×1 rib pattern. It’s sleek, smooth, and has a slight sheen. GSM is typically 220–270, and it drapes like a dream.

It’s a go-to for tailored knitwear—think blazers, sheath dresses, and slim pants. The structure gives it body without stiffness. I once made a Milano knit pantsuit for a client who wore it daily for two weeks straight—no wrinkles, no bagging.

But here’s the catch: it runs narrow. Because of the diagonal pull, the fabric can feel tighter across the hips than expected. Always do a fit sample. I learned this after a client complained her “perfect size” felt restrictive. We adjusted the pattern by adding 1.5” to the hip—lesson learned.

Ponte di Roma

Ponte di Roma is the Swiss Army knife of double knits. A typical blend is 62% rayon, 33% polyester, 5% spandex, weighing 270–300 GSM. It’s stable, slightly compressive, and holds its shape like a woven.

Designers love it for pants, skirts, and jackets because it’s forgiving on the body and easy to sew. I’ve used it for everything from maternity wear to office suits. One batch from the supplier had a tighter weave than usual—stretch dropped from 25% to 18%. We had to revise the pattern, adding ease in the seat. Moral: always test stretch before cutting.

Sewing tip: use a 75/11 stretch needle and a straight stitch with 2.5 mm length. Ponte doesn’t need serging, but a clean-finished seam prevents fraying over time.

Rib Knit Fabric

Rib knit—especially 2×2 or 1×1—uses alternating knit and purl stitches on both sides to create vertical ribs. It’s highly elastic, with 50–70% stretch in the width, but minimal lengthwise give. That’s why it’s perfect for cuffs, neckbands, and waistbands.

Most rib knits are 180–240 GSM. But here’s a pro tip: if you’re using rib knit for a neckline, cut it 10–15% smaller than the neck opening. It will stretch to fit and snap back, creating a clean finish.

I once tried using a rib knit for a full dress—looked great on the hanger, but stretched out by noon. Rib isn’t meant for large panels unless stabilized. Now I reserve it for trims or fitted bodices with internal structure.

Thermal knit fabrics

Thermal knit is the original double-knit base layer. It’s made with tuck stitches that create air pockets—like tiny insulation chambers. That’s why it’s warm without being heavy. Classic thermal fabric is 100% cotton, 200–240 GSM, and has minimal stretch.

But here’s the trade-off: it loses stability when wet. I’ve seen thermal fabric shrink 8% lengthwise after washing if not pre-shrunk. Also, the tuck loops can snag on sharp objects—keep it away from Velcro or pet claws.

Use it for loungewear, long johns, or kids’ PJs. For a modern twist, try a cotton-modal blend—it’s softer and less prone to pilling.

Impact of Double Knit Fabric in Current Fashion

Double knits are having a quiet renaissance in fashion—not as trend pieces, but as backbone fabrics. Designers are leaning into their stability for “elevated basics” and trans-seasonal wear. You see it in the rise of knit blazers, structured dresses, and travel-friendly separates.

Excellent Versatility

Double knits bridge the gap between jersey and suiting. A ponte pencil skirt can go from office to dinner; a Milano knit blazer works with silk or denim. That versatility means fewer fabrics in stock but more outfit combinations.

I worked with a small brand that switched from wovens to double knits for 60% of their line. Their production time dropped by three weeks because knits don’t need interfacing or lining. But they had to retrain their patternmakers—knits behave differently in drape and stretch.

Highly Durable

Durability isn’t just about wear—it’s about wash cycles, travel, and real life. A good double knit can handle 50+ washes with minimal shape loss. We tested a rayon-poly-spandex ponte at 40°C for 60 cycles—stretch retention was 92%. That’s why brands are using them for rental and subscription models.

But durability depends on fiber. Polyester-rich blends last longer; rayon-heavy ones feel better but degrade faster in UV and moisture. It’s a trade-off: luxury vs. longevity.

Comfort and Fit

Double knits move with the body without clinging. That’s why they’re popular in adaptive and inclusive fashion. A Liverpool knit dress can accommodate a range of body shapes without looking baggy.

I once designed a line for a client with mobility issues. We used a 4-way stretch double knit with flatlock seams—no pressure points, easy on/off. She could dress independently for the first time in years. That’s the quiet power of good fabric choice.

Enhanced Designs

The thickness and stability of double knits allow for bold design moves—cut-outs, bonded seams, laser finishing. Because they don’t fray, you can play with raw edges or intricate laser patterns.

One designer I know used a double jacquard with a metallic backing—laser-cut the top layer to reveal the shine underneath. Couldn’t do that with a single knit. The structure held everything in place.

Final Thought

Double knits aren’t just “thicker jersey.” They’re engineered textiles that balance stretch, stability, and drape in ways that can make or break a garment. The key isn’t just knowing the types—it’s understanding how they behave under stress, heat, and time. Pick the right one, and your design lasts longer, fits better, and feels intentional. Pick the wrong one, and you’re fighting the fabric every step of the way.