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What Is Pique (PK) Fabric?
What Is Pique (PK) Fabric?
Pique fabric, commonly called PK fabric, is a textured knit made by looping yarn so that the reverse side forms small raised bumps and the face side shows a fine diamond or honeycomb pattern. The name comes from the French word piqué, and because the French letter q is pronounced as a hard k in some Asian sourcing conventions, the fabric acquired the abbreviation PK. So PK and pique are the same material, not two different ones — and both terms are in current use in the textile trade.
PK fabric is usually a double knit, which means it is knitted on both faces at once rather than being a single jersey with a printed surface. That construction is what makes it stable, opaque and wrinkle-resistant, and it is the reason pique has become the default choice for polo shirts, sports uniforms and structured knitwear.
Because it is defined by structure rather than fibre, PK fabric can be made from 100% cotton, cotton-polyester blends (including TC and CVC constructions), or performance synthetics. The fibre determines the hand feel and price; the pique construction determines the durability and the look.
How Pique Fabric Is Made
Pique is produced on a double-knit circular or flat knitting machine using a special yarn arrangement. The key is how the yarn is fed:
- Two yarns, not one. The face yarn and the back yarn are tensioned differently, and the back yarn is fed more loosely so it forms small loops on the reverse.
- The loops create the pattern. Those reverse-side loops break through the face to produce the characteristic raised diamond, birdseye or honeycomb texture.
- Density is controlled by gauge and GSM. A higher gauge machine and a higher GSM both give a finer, denser surface.
- Finishing determines the hand. Peaching, brushing, calendaring or enzyme washing are applied after knitting to change touch and surface.
Because both faces are knitted simultaneously, pique has a clean, non-curling edge. This is a practical advantage over single jersey, which curls at the cut edge and therefore needs binding or hemming on every seam.
Types of PK (Pique) Fabric
Buyers usually specify pique by its structure variant rather than by fibre. These are the variants you will encounter most often in sourcing conversations:
| Type | Structure | Typical Use |
|---|---|---|
| Single pique | One layer of reverse loops on the back | Lightweight polos, T-shirts, lining |
| Double pique | Two layers of loops, heavier and more opaque | Premium polos, uniforms, structured knitwear |
| Single tuck (single tuck pique) | Tuck stitches create a vertical rib-like line | Sports jerseys where a rib look is wanted |
| Double tuck (double tuck pique) | Two tuck lines, firmer and more dimensional | Heavier polos and suiting-adjacent knits |
| Jumbo pique | Oversized loops, pronounced honeycomb relief | Bags, home textiles, statement knitwear |
| Honeycomb / mesh pique | Open loop structure with visible holes | Moisture-wicking sports mesh, ventilation panels |
When a buyer writes simply “PK fabric”, the most common default is a single- or double-pique in cotton or TC, roughly 180–240 gsm, used for polos. Always confirm the variant in the specification rather than relying on the abbreviation.
Pique (PK) Fabric: Properties and Performance
Stability and opacity. The double-knit construction gives pique a heavier feel than a comparable jersey and makes it substantially more opaque, which is why it is preferred where a see-through fabric is unacceptable.
Wrinkle and shrinkage behaviour. Pique holds a shape well and recovers better than single jersey. Like all cotton knits it will shrink if washed hot without pre-shrinking, so ask for the shrinkage figure measured on a stated test method.
Moisture management. On its own, cotton pique absorbs moisture rather than wicking it. For sports use, a moisture-wicking version is usually produced with an open honeycomb or mesh variant, or with a polyester blend. Our guide to cotton interlock covers the trade-offs between constructions in more detail.
Durability. The raised texture disguises minor pilling better than a smooth jersey face, and the double knit resists abrasion from repeated washing — the reason polo shirts hold their shape season after season.
Pique vs Interlock vs Jersey
These three are the most commonly confused knits, and choosing wrongly is a common sourcing error.
| Pique (PK) | Interlock | Single Jersey | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Knit type | Double knit, textured | Double knit, smooth | Single knit |
| Surface | Raised diamond / honeycomb | Smooth, flat face | Smooth with fine face |
| Opacity | High | High | Low |
| Edge behaviour | Clean, stable | Clean, stable | Curls when cut |
| Relative weight | Heaviest of the three | Medium | Lightest |
| Classic use | Polos, uniforms | Premium tees, activewear | T-shirts, lining |
For a performance polo, PK is the right starting point. For a premium T-shirt where smoothness matters more than structure, interlock is the better choice. For a lightweight, drapey tee or a lining, single jersey remains the economical standard. More on the interchange in our single jersey versus interlock comparison.
Cotton PK Fabric and Polyester Blends
100% cotton PK is soft, breathable and takes dye well. It is the default for polo shirts and is what most buyers mean when they say “PK fabric” without further specification. It has a natural matte sheen and is comfortable against skin, which makes it the right fabric for corporate and hospitality uniforms where comfort across long shifts matters.
TC (polyester-cotton) PK — usually around 55% polyester / 45% cotton — is the workhorse. It adds strength, reduces shrinkage, costs less and holds colour better, at the slight expense of hand feel and breathability. For sports jerseys and high-wash garments, TC is often the more practical choice. See our guide to polyester-cotton blends and CVC for the full comparison.
Performance PK adds an open honeycomb or mesh structure, sometimes with polyester or lycra for stretch and faster drying, for activewear where ventilation matters more than opacity.
Choosing PK Fabric: GSM, Composition and Width
Three numbers decide most PK orders:
Weight (GSM). Polo shirts typically sit between 180 and 240 gsm. Below 160 gsm the fabric becomes thin and semi-transparent on a light body; above 260 gsm it reads as a heavier structured knit that suits autumn and winter ranges. Lighter weights suit tropical climates, heavier weights suit layering.
Composition. Specify as a percentage, not a blend name — for example “100% cotton” or “55/45 polyester-cotton”. The yarn count and knit machine together determine the character: a 24G machine gives a finer, softer surface than a 20G.
Width. State the valid cuttable width in centimetres rather than the overall width, because a 180 cm fabric may only yield 160 cm after selvedge removal. This is the single most common cause of a shortage at the cutting stage.
If you are working between metric and imperial units, our fabric GSM calculator and garment yardage calculator will help you convert before you commit to an order quantity.
Sourcing PK Fabric: What to Specify and Where to Buy
When requesting a PK quotation, state the following so that mill quotations are actually comparable:
- Type — single pique, double pique, single tuck, double tuck, jumbo or honeycomb mesh
- Composition — 100% cotton, TC 55/45, CVC 60/40, or a performance blend
- Weight — target GSM and your tolerance
- Knit machine gauge — 20G, 24G, 28G
- Valid cuttable width — in cm
- Finish — none, peached, calendared, enzyme washed, dyed
- Order basis — MOQ per colour and whether custom colour development is required
We are a weft knit mill in Keqiao, Shaoxing running pique, interlock, jersey and fleece programmes with 4,500+ tons of annual capacity and SGS certification. Current pique products in our range include 100% polyester PK interlock 200 GSM, TC polyester-cotton pique and fluorescence pique. You can browse the full fabric range or send us your specification and we will confirm what is actually producible on your target GSM and construction.
Care and Durability: Making PK Last
Pique is one of the more forgiving knits in commercial use, but a few practices materially extend its life.
Wash cool and turn inside out. Pique holds colour well, but prolonged high-temperature washing weakens cotton fibres gradually. Washing at 30–40°C and drying inside out preserves both the surface texture and the colour.
Avoid high heat on the dryer. The double-knit structure will hold its shape better if line dried or dried on a low setting; high heat is what causes the shrinkage that makes polos look ill-fitting after a season.
Do not over-use softener on the face. Softener residue coats the fibre and reduces the surface cohesion that helps keep the raised texture intact.
Rotate garments in a load. Washing polos with heavy towels or denim abrades the raised surface. Rotation slows the visible pilling that otherwise builds on the pique face.
Applied consistently, these steps will keep a pique polo looking sharp long after a comparable single-jersey tee has lost its finish.
Five Pique Sourcing Mistakes to Avoid
These are the specification errors we see most often, and each one is easy to prevent at order stage.
1. Ordering “PK” without a type. Single pique, double pique and jumbo pique are different fabrics. Specify which, or the mill will quote the cheapest variant and you will reject the goods on arrival.
2. Using overall width instead of valid width. Overall width includes selvedge. Always state the cuttable width you intend to cut from, with the tolerance you can accept.
3. Leaving GSM as “around 200”. A 180–240 gsm range is a 33% spread, which is a 40% spread in yarn cost. Give a target and a tolerance.
4. Forgetting the knit machine gauge. 20G and 28G from the same mill produce visibly different surfaces. Gauge belongs in the specification.
5. Not confirming shrinkage before committing volume. This is the most expensive mistake, because it only becomes visible after cutting. Ask for the shrinkage on a stated test method, at your target GSM, before placing a bulk order.
Frequently Asked Questions
What does PK stand for in fabric?
PK is simply how the French word piqué is spelled phonetically in sourcing shorthand — the qu is read as k. So PK fabric and pique fabric are the same material. When a supplier writes “PK” in an order, confirm the construction variant and fibre content, because the abbreviation alone does not specify them.
Is PK fabric the same as cotton?
No. Cotton is the fibre; PK is the knit structure. PK fabric can be 100% cotton, a cotton-polyester blend, or performance synthetic. When buyers ask for “cotton PK fabric” they mean the pique structure in 100% cotton.
What is the difference between single and double pique?
Single pique has one layer of loops on the reverse and is lighter. Double pique has two layers, giving a heavier, more opaque and more structured fabric. Double pique is the usual choice for premium polos and uniforms; single pique for lightweight T-shirts and lining.
Does pique fabric shrink?
Like any cotton knit that has not been pre-shrunk, pique can shrink with hot washing. The amount depends on how the fabric was set, not on the pique construction itself. Request the shrinkage figure on a stated test method and set your tolerance in the order confirmation.
Is pique fabric good for sportswear?
For polo shirts and uniforms, yes. For high-intensity activity where the fabric is soaked with sweat, a plain cotton pique will absorb rather than wick moisture — in that case choose an open honeycomb or mesh pique variant, usually with a polyester blend. Our guide to pique knit covers the construction choices in more detail.
What is the difference between pique and interlock?
Both are double knits with clean edges, so they are often compared. Pique has a raised textured face and is heavier; interlock has a smooth flat face and is lighter. Choose pique for structure and polo-style products, interlock for smooth premium tees and activewear.
What is single tuck and double tuck pique fabric?
Both are pique variants where tuck stitches are used to create a vertical rib-like line. Single tuck uses one tuck line and is lighter; double tuck uses two and is firmer and more dimensional. They are chosen when the buyer wants a ribbed look without changing to a true rib fabric, and they appear most often in sports jerseys and heavier polos.
Can pique fabric be sublimation printed?
Yes, and polo shirts are frequently sublimation printed. Because pique is a textured surface, the print sits slightly raised on top of the loops rather than sinking into them, so very fine detail can lose definition. Pre-treatment and correct ink choice matter more here than on flat jersey. For polyester-based pique, use a polyester-compatible disperse sublimation process; cotton pique requires a different route.
What GSM is best for polo shirts?
Between 180 and 240 gsm for most polo programmes. Below 160 gsm becomes semi-transparent on a light body; above 260 gsm reads as a structured knit better suited to autumn and winter. For hospitality and corporate uniforms where the garment is worn for long shifts, 200–240 gsm in 100% cotton or a TC blend is the most common specification.
Is jumbo pique fabric different from regular pique?
Yes. Jumbo pique uses a larger yarn and a coarser gauge, producing oversized loops and a pronounced honeycomb relief. It is noticeably heavier and more three-dimensional than standard single or double pique, and is used for bags, home textiles and statement knitwear rather than for lightweight polos.